The day started with a pick-up at 8:30 for my tour to Kizimkazi where I was supposed to swim with dolphins. My family had told me so much about this magic experience, that I was very much looking forward to it. Maybe too much, since expectations are never good in case they don’t get fulfilled. Again, Saraphia came along and the congregation had generously arranged for a driver. It took about an hour to arrive at Kizimkazi, a fishing village at the southern point of the island. Kizimkazi is also the site of a 12th century mosque, the earliest evidence of Islam in East Africa. Since we came here for dolphin watching, we went straight to the beach where our small wooden boat was leaving from. It was kind of a “green beach” with some grass, quite a few trees, rocks, and large bits of shallow water. The water itself was emerald green with a touch of turquoise and a few drops of blue – wonderful. In total we spent about two and a half hours on the boat but were not very lucky in terms of dolphin sightings. Admittedly, 10:30 is quite a late time to start as it is recommended to try the early morning or late afternoon. We did see dolphins but only very short and quite far away. I tried not to be too disappointed, I guess I just wanted it too much. Still, we could go overboard for a swim and some snorkelling which wasn’t easy because there were quite some waves out there. Just knowing that I was swimming in the Indian Ocean, however, made me feel great.

After having had lunch at Kizimkazi, we continued our tour to the Jozani Natural Forest Reserve. Jozani Forest is located in the central east region of Zanzibar island and is a remnant of primeval forest, some 3.6 sq km in area and the only one of its kind on the island. It is home to the rare Red Colobus Monkey which only exists here. We first organised us a ranger and went for a guided walking tour to see the monkeys. One source says: “These monkeys are full of character... and are incredibly photogenic” – which is true! They roam around freely in the forest and you can get really close. Mostly they sit up in the trees but when they come down to the ground, they pass by at an arm’s length and if you reached out, you would be able to touch them. Obviously, you shouldn’t do it but when you see them being all cute and funny, it is quite a temptation.

After we had observed the monkeys for a while, we continued to another area of the reserve: a huge mangrove swamp. This place was amazing and almost seemed like an enchanted site. A simple wooden walkway was built just above the waters of the swamp, leading into the thicket of mangrove trees. The water was brown, though not dirty, and the air seemed green and heavy because of all the lush vegetation as far as our eyes could see. Still the air was fresh, bits of light and shadow were dancing around us, and the tree roots reminded me of weird looking alien fingers. They seemed as if they were alive and I wondered if anyone ever came back from taking the labyrinth-like walkway into the forest that looked like it could swallow us with one single bite. The only noise we heard was the smacking sound of tiny water waves in the thicket beneath us which only encouraged my lively alien fantasy. Overall, a great place.

Last but not least, we went for a walking tour inside the oldest part of Jozani Forest. It was the first time I’ve ever been in a tropical rain forest and it was fantastic. This part of the forest has remained untouched by humans and it was everything you would imagine about a rain forest: VERY humid, VERY lush and VERY green! Some trees were so high that you could barely see their tops, which built an almost secluding green roof above everything else that grew in between them and the ground. We were surrounded by any shade of green Mother Nature was able to produce and some plants were so twisted with each other that you could hardly distinguish which leaf or root belongs to which tree. Some spots of the forest were so humid that it seemed as if it was raining, the ground was mellow and wet and water was dripping of the leaves in thick heavy drops. We didn’t see any animals as most of the ones living in the forest are nocturnal creatures, except the million giant ants that were busy building hives or transporting their eggs on “highways” and through tunnels entirely built of ants. I had never seen anything similar: tubes made of ants in which you could see others speeding back and forth carrying their eggs.

After a couple of hours at this amazing forest reserve, our driver drove Saraphia and me to a hotel located on the south east coast of Zanzibar, just north of Bwejuu. This was were I was going to stay tonight, fulfilling a long borne wish: one night in a 5-star hotel. The place I chose – or better the place that chose me – was called The Breezes Beach Club. I had seen an advertisement in the board magazine on my flight to Ethiopia and did what I had never done before: I ripped out the page, carried it with me for a while, finally checked their web site and decided to come here. We arrived at the Breezes around 5 pm and I felt like a queen from the moment I set foot on their grounds. This was a place like in an oriental fairy-tale. I loved it.

After I had checked in and got my room (gorgeously furnished with a terrace facing the beach), I said good-bye to Saraphia and the driver who returned to Mwanakwerekwe for the night. Finally, I was alone - and enjoyed it! I took a shower and laid on my bed for a while which couldn’t have been any better in paradise. My room as well as the rest of the hotel were decorated with so much taste and attention to detail - flowers, pillows, colours, everything just fit - it was pure pleasure. At 7 pm I went in the lounge for a welcome cocktail offered to all new arrivals of the day. What I especially liked was the personal introduction of every hotel service by a representative in charge of each area: front desk, food & beverages, spa, entertainment, etc.. The hotel director was there as well as the diving instructor and the lady responsible for overall customer service. Everyone introduced themselves which made it feel like a very warm and personal welcome. At this point I already got a clue of what would be confirmed over the next 24 hours: This was not a place for single travellers. Everyone else, except me, came here as a couple, whether it was on their honeymoon (25%), in a honeymoon-like mood (50%), or to revive honeymoon feelings (20%). The remaining 5% were families or friends sharing this secret hide-away and giving themselves a treat out of their wealthy pocket. (The only other non-couple at the welcome cocktail were two English ladies in their 50s who had left their husbands at home to climb the Kilimanjaro and now wanted to recover from the physical efforts of the past days... by all decent means: I heard one of them asking for a facial, pedicure and manicure at the spa reception the next day.)

After the cocktail reception and a short check on the beach, I went for dinner. To my annoyance and upcoming frustration I had to confirm twice to the waiter in charge of seating the guests that yes, I was alone, and no, I was not expecting anyone else to join me for dinner. Obviously, no table was laid for only one person and it kind of hurt, when they took away the second cover. They put me in a kind of corner from where I could perfectly observe all the happy couples around me and this dinner (as well as the rest of my stay at the Breezes) turned into a real hardcore test for being a single traveller! At least, the food was very good, underlined by some African music performed by a live band in cheap touristy costumes, playing traditional instruments.

The table next to me was taken by a French-speaking couple of my parents’ age. At some point the woman got up to take a picture of her husband, so I offered her to take the picture with both of them in it. They gladly accepted and were surprised I spoke French. It turned out they were from Belgium living south of Brussels and somehow we started a conversation. In the end, they invited me to join them at their table, which after a little bit of hesitation, I did. I admit, it was nice not to be alone anymore. Monsieur and Madame Dubucq were very nice people and I am glad I could spend the rest of the evening with them.